Antique Bottles with New Tops for Sale
here for Pricing & Health Warnings
|Read the health warnings associated with
these enamels. Use at your own risk. Have
good ventilation and wear surgical gloves.
Remove enamel immediately from skin.
Paint cold glass on the thick side to begin with. If you thin the paint in the beginning you may be disappointed with the impact of your image. Heat painted pieces in pick up oven to just below the slumping temperature. Vent the oven until about 500�F. The burning off of the pine oil can reduce the red to brown. Pick up the heated pieces and heat in glory hole. A reduction atmosphere can effect the colors. If you heat the painted piece up alot let it cool way down before you gather over it. A hot piece and a hot furnace can cause the paint to bubble. If your temperatures are correct you will have a bubble free piece.
I do not know of a furnace glass that these enamels are not com- patable with. They may be used on window glass, ceramics, and steel.
Methods of application vary from brush, air brush, silkscreen, rubber stamps, sponges, brayer, printing, etc.
The enamels are excellent for fusing and slumping sheet glass. Multiple sheets may be stacked for fusing. It is a good idea to fire out the pine oil medium at (300 to 500�F ) before stacking and fusing. If you don�t burn the oil out it will blow big holes in the glass. Window glass works well and will fuse around 1550 - 1600� F. One side of the float glass has been in contact with the molten bed of tin. The paint will react differently on one side or the other. A black light may be used to detect the tin side.
Glass Blowing Techniques
A glass parison ( erroneously referred to as a Graal blank) is made off the pipe or puntied up and finished. This annealed parison is painted with enamels, brought up to temperature (1,000 - 1100�F) in an oven and picked up on a blowpipe. If you want to gather over it let it cool down after heating in the g - hole.
Glass cups either puntied up or popped off when cold gives you an interesting form to paint on and in. You can discover the possibilities of reverse glass painting. After reheating the painted cup you can drop inside to pick it up on a blowpipe with clear or an infinite number of glass colors.
Preparing glass rondels will give you a flat surface to paint on and or silkscreen. These can be cut into squares or whatever shape. You can reverse glass paint these pieces. Solid pieces such as figures, cubes, spheres, etc, maybe made off the punty or cast and painted.
The concept for using these paints is simple. Paint cold glass, heat it up to slightly below slumping and then put clear glass over.
There are no rules; however; I suggest not adding much or any oil to the enamels. If the environment, glass, and paint is warm the paint will be much more fluid. If it is still necessary to thin the paint use paint thinner / mineral spirits. I like to put down a layer of white and paint into the wet white with the other colors.
The paint will dry near the furnace enough so that you can pick the glass piece up by the painted area.
You should have a well ventilated area for your kiln when you heat the paint up. The vaporizing pine oil will create a heavy odor. The kiln should also be ventilated or the door propped open when using RED. The burning pine oil creates a reduction atmosphere which changes the red to brown.
At what temperature do the enamels mature? If fired to 1150�f they will be matt but adhere to the glass. 1350 - 1450�f they will be at full gloss.
Clean up brushes, etc, with mineral spirits - paint thinner. Lacquer thinner and acetone will also work. Do not use turpentine to thin the paints or clean brushes.
If you have any technical question give me a call.
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